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Monday, June 17, 2013

Visits, friends and fun

I've had a very busy past week or so.  Besides, of course, working and working on the house, my friend Amy was in France for a two week vacation, and she spent the past week staying with us in Bordeaux and then she and I traveled up to Paris for the weekend.  She's still in Paris and flies back to the US tomorrow, but I had to come back last night to work. 

We had a wonderful visit together.  I hadn't seen her since our return to the US, when we stayed with her for a few days near Fort Lauderdale after our cruise and before heading up to Ohio.  She's from Florida and we originally met a few years ago in Paris, where she was studying at the time.  She showed up at a barbecue at our apartment on a first date with one of Lionel's friends.  We didn't even know he was bringing anyone, and imagine my surprise when he showed up with a fellow American!  Their relationship fizzled shortly after that, but Amy and I became fast friends.  She had to leave France because of visa issues just a few weeks before we did, and then a few months after her return to the US she moved to Australia for a year, so we hadn't seen each other in a year and a half, but we kept in contact.  I was thrilled to hear she was planning a trip to France to visit with friends and that she was planning it for after our return so we were able to have her visit us in Bordeaux.

We spent a lovely week enjoying good food and wine, relaxing, catching up and visiting some of the area and then we headed up to Paris on Friday to spend the weekend catching up with some more good friends and revisiting old haunts.

While she was here we kept ourselves quite busy with an evening visit of Bordeaux, and my first time exploring the city since we moved here:

La Garonne
 
walking along the quais de la Garonne
 
the miroir d'eau in Bordeaux at Place de la Bourse
 
La Porte Cailhau
 
Place de la Comédie

And we took Amy out to the Bassin d'Arcachon for a visit: 
 
on top of the Dune de Pyla
 
enjoying the beautiful view from the Dune de Pyla
 
enjoying some oysters in the port de Gujan-Mestras
 
le port de Biganos, probably the prettiest port I've seen on the bassin

And we went to St. Emilion:
 
 view of St. Emilion and the vineyards
 
vineyards of St. Emilion
 
exploring St. Emilion
 
enjoying some St. Emilion in the heart of St. Emilion
 
a view over the town
 
 
walking around St. Emilion

And then we were off to Paris: 
 
spending a relaxing Sunday afternoon enjoying falafel from L'As du Fallafel in the Place des Vosges
 
relaxing along the Seine
 
walking past Notre Dame on the way to meet a friend, I just couldn't resist the urge to take a picture since blue skies are so rare in Paris
 
I was shocked by how clean the Conciergerie looked when we crossed the Seine, so I had to take a pic 

Wednesday, June 5, 2013

International move with a four-legged family member

Crystal kindly requested that I do a more detailed blog on the process of moving your furry family member across the ocean, and being the obliging blogger that I am, here is more info about the whole process.  Warning: this may be a very boring post for those of you who are not interested in this process or who don’t have a pet.

My experiences, moving from France to the US and from the US back to France with Rasteau, have both been with Delta/Air France primarily because these airlines offered us the shortest trips between France and Ohio, which we personally thought was very important when travelling with an animal.  After all, the poor little creatures are trapped in cages the entire time, even when at the airport, without a bathroom and most of the time without access to food and water (though from what I understand this does depend on the length of the trip, the airline, and the mode of transport chosen i.e. in the cabin, in the hold or as cargo).  As an added bonus, for us at least, Delta/Air France allows you to bring your small pet in the cabin, rather than restricting them to the hold, on international trips.  This is not the case with all airlines, and from my research, it seems like Delta is the only major US airline that allows pets in the cabin on international flights.  On the way to the US we chose the cabin as we thought it would be easiest and we liked the idea of being able to keep an eye on the little guy throughout the whole trip.  On the way back, however, we decided we would give the hold a try.  I don’t really know the pros and cons of each option, so I think it is up to you to decide what you think will work best in your particular situation and with your pet.  Either way the cost was the same, $200 to have your pet on the plane (not to mention the added cost of having Lionel travel with super expensive Delta/Air France rather than my relatively cheap, but 21-hour long trip with Iberia).  However, if you travel with your pet in the cabin you do not get to bring a carry-on suitcase, only a small personal item in addition to the pet.  I personally think this is an airline scam.  You are paying extra to bring the pet soyou should still get your carry-on!  If the animal is in the hold this does not change the number of bags you get to bring.  In either case, I highly recommend making a reservation with your airline of choice as far in advance as possible as there are restrictions on the number of pets that are allowed to travel in the cabin and in the hold on each aircraft.  Definitely do not just show up at the airport the day of your flight hoping to get your animal on the plane as this is not a guarantee.  Each time Rasteau has flown he was not the only pet on the plane.

So first, more information on travelling with your animal in the cabin.  If your pet comes with you in the cabin the animal must be in a small, soft-sided carrier that can fit comfortably under the seat in front of you.  The airlines can provide you with more specific information regarding the dimensions of the carrier, etc, but it has to be soft-sided in case it has to squish a little to fit.  Also important to note is that you can give your animal sedatives if it is travelling in the cabin, but it is not recommended to do so if the pet is travelling in the hold.  From what I read, and from what our vets told us, apparently it can be fatal to drug an animal travelling in the hold, but I don’t really know why.  

When you arrive at the airport you have to present your pet at the counter so they can make sure the carrier is the right size and that it follows any and all regulations.  You then proceed through security and boarding as normal.  The only difference is, depending on the country/airport, you may have to remove your pet from the carrier to take it through security.  In our experience, in France they gave us the option of carrying Rasteau through the security check point or keeping him in the carrier to go through the x-ray machine with the other hand luggage.  In the US we had no choice but to carry Rasteau through.  There again, I don’t know which is better, but I’m sure there is research out there.  I’m sure it also depends on the temperament of your pet and their ability to escape from your grasp.  I can’t even imagine the stress if we had to chase a terrified cat through a major international airport!

When travelling in the hold you have to follow IATA requirements for a hard-sided kennel.  These requirements go so far as to dictate the kind of latches holding the kennel together, the materials the kennel is made of, the kind and number of openings, the dimensions based on the height/length/weight of your animal, etc.  I recommend doing a lot of research before purchasing a kennel to make sure you buy one that meets all the guidelines.  You should also check this against the guidelines provided by your airline.  In our experience, Air France required a kennel that went above and beyond the IATA guidelines but when it came time to actually make the purchase, the only kennels we could find that met the Air France guidelines were for large and extra-large dogs.  We thought this was a bit ridiculous as we certainly didn’t need a kennel that big for a small cat, so we checked the Delta guidelines, and they were very different from Air France, though the two companies operate codeshare flights.  The Delta guidelines were the same as the IATA so, after many frantic calls to Delta/Air France, we eventually followed the Delta guidelines.  Even though we had purchased the ticket through Air France, we were flying out of Cincinnati, which is a Delta hub, the flight was operated by Delta and we would be faced with Delta representatives at the counter who would have the final say as to whether or not our furball made it on the flight.  These kennels, depending on size and brand, can range anywhere from $30-$200.  

Additionally, according to the IATA and most airlines (but again, not Air France) you should attach travel food and water dishes to the door of the kennel, and attach a plastic bag of food to the outside of the carrier, in case the animal needs to be given something to eat or drink.  This does not apply in all cases, but on longer flights, or if there are unexpected delays, the flight crew may be required to feed your animal and they must be able to do so without opening the door.  On a normal flight to France your pet would not be given anything to eat or drink, but if you had a long delay they would (not sure exactly what the time limits are).  Upon arrival at the airport, your pet is dropped off at the counter during check-in to be transported to the aircraft and upon boarding they usually make an announcement to let passengers know that their animal has been safely boarded and is indeed on the plane.  

However, when it comes to travelling with your pet in the hold, please let me give you this one very important tip based on our own very unpleasant experience bringing Rasteau back to France.  Be absolutely sure to verify that the type of plane you will be travelling on can in fact accommodate animals in the hold.  Even if you’ve made the reservation and have been assured by the reservations specialist that your animal will be flying on your plane in the hold, do the extra research.  We did not and when we arrived at the Delta counter at the Cincinnati airport we were very rudely informed that animals could not travel in the hold from Cincinnati to Paris because the specific aircraft used for that route did not accommodate pets in the hold (I think it was a 767).  You see, I had naively assumed that when we called and made Rasteau’s reservation (and subsequently confirmed it at least 5 times through various other phone calls related to the kennel requirements), that the reservations agents would have informed us if the type of aircraft Lionel was scheduled to fly on could not accommodate pets in the hold.  Seeing as we had to provide Lionel’s reservation information in order to make Rasteau’s reservation, this seemed like a logical assumption, but you know what the say, assuming makes an ass out of you and me.  

Imagine our surprise when we arrived at the airport, loaded down with luggage, a giant hard-sided carrier and a very stressed out cat, and we were so impolitely told, at first, just that animals could not travel through Paris.  What!?! I nearly screamed, completely confused as we had made the reservation months in advance, confirmed it, and never been told anything of the kind.  Not to mention our cat is Parisian, of course he could travel through his hometown!  I tried as hard as I could to calm down and asked, as kindly as possible given the circumstances, what our options were at that point.  We were rudely told that our only option was not to bring our cat.  Clearly not an option!  Finally, after a near panic attack, a couple of inappropriate curse words on my part and a few tears, another Delta representative came over to see what the problem was and kindly informed us that in fact, it was not that the cat couldn’t travel through Paris, it was the type of aircraft that was the problem and he couldn’t travel in the hold.  She, unlike the first bitch who was incredibly rude and unbelievably unhelpful (and now that I finally have internet and phone access I have to file my complaint), apologized for the inconvenience and explained that we could still get the cat on the plane if we could manage to find a soft-sided carrier to bring him in the cabin.  She also offered to check Lionel’s carry-on suitcase free of charge (and personally I think they should have offered more than just that considering all the money we lost on the fancy kennel and all the stress they put us through because their representatives are idiots) since Rasteau would now be counted as his carry-on and we hadn’t planned on that. 

So, off I went with my dad on a mad dash across the airport and out to the car, directions in hand, to find the nearest pet store to buy a carrier as quickly possible so that they wouldn’t miss the flight.  Luckily, as I was frantically running through PetSmart I found an incredibly nice employee who was very sympathetic to my problem and quickly showed me all the options and then let me cut in line to pay so I could make it back in time.  Once back at the airport, we got everyone checked in and I watched them head through security, secretly praying that a non-sedated Rasteau would not manage to claw through the soft-sided carrier in a panic on the flight (he has already managed to rip through two of them).

Upon arrival in the country of destination you must take your pet through customs and then back through security if changing planes.  According to everything I’ve read online, when your pet travels in the hold, you have to pick it up with your luggage to go through customs, and if your pet is travelling in the cabin you just carry it off the plane and through customs.  Normally, from what I understand, there is supposed to be a quick check with a vet or at least a customs specialist to verify that the animal does not appear to have any diseases, but we did not experience this on either side of the Atlantic.  Also in customs they are supposed to verify all of your paperwork, but Lionel said that in Paris they didn’t even really bother to look at it.  Also, contrary to popular belief, most of the time your pet does not have to be quarantined.  Usually your pet is only quarantined if it appears unhealthy when/if checked at customs.  However, this does vary depending on the destination country.

As far as papers are concerned, for Rasteau to travel from France to the US he needed to get a passport and a health certificate.  Both of these documents can be obtained very easily from your vet in France.  The passport contains the animal’s ID information, microchip number and info on all check-ups, vaccines, etc and can be obtained at any time and then updated with each subsequent visit to the vet.  The health certificate must be obtained shortly before flying and states that the animal is in a condition to travel, not sick, not injured, etc.  

For the return to France, from what I understand we probably would have been fine with just his French passport, but I like to be overly prepared, just in case, so we went to our vet and got a health certificate as well.  In the US the health certificate is much more complicated than in France, probably because the US doesn’t have passports for pets so they have to include records of all vaccinations, etc on the health certificate, and it took our vet 5 days and multiple calls to the US State Department to complete all the paperwork.  The US State Department provides the forms to the vet and has specific forms depending on the destination country.  The State Department insisted we needed all of this, and according to their requirements, once the form is completed by the vet you have to bring it to the US State Department office in your state to be stamped, which costs maybe $20.  We didn’t know about any of this and found out a few days before flying.  This would have required a trip up to Columbus and we just didn’t have the time, so we didn’t end up getting it stamped, figuring that the airline didn’t require a health certificate and France didn’t seem to require one for a French cat with a passport, though of course the US State Department insists they do.  Another requirement for bringing an animal into Europe is that the animal now must have a microchip.  Rasteau already had one, so that wasn’t a problem for us.  The US, however, doesn’t require one.  Be sure to check with your airline though because some airlines do require documentation and others, like Delta, don’t.  The papers required also depend on your destination country and of course your animal’s origins.  For example, I know that it is much more difficult to bring an animal into the United Kingdom and it would require a lot more research and work.


Rasteau's passport

  
The ID pages of Rasteau's passport.  There is even a place to put a photo of your pet, though this is optional.

My overall impressions were that it is actually quite easy to travel with an animal, at least between the US and France.  Rasteau took it pretty well both times.  On the trip to the US we sedated him but he was still wide awake and freaked out at the airport in Paris, moving around a lot and meowing quite a bit.  But once he was settled on the plane he just passed out and slept the entire flight, only waking up upon arrival in Cincinnati when he was removed from his carrier to go through security.  Coming back to France he was not sedated because we thought he was going to travel in the hold.  He was pretty freaked out at the airport and from what Lionel said he didn’t really settle down until after take-off.  Upon arrival at the airport in Paris he was quite scared again but then he mostly slept through the flight to Bordeaux and woke up again when he was taken off the plane.  So overall I don’t really know if the sedatives made much of a difference because drugged or not he was scared at the airports and he slept through the flights.

I planned months in advance both times, partially because I’m a control freak and partially because I like to do everything possible to be sure to avoid potential problems (though that didn’t work so well this time around…).  I made Rasteau’s reservations a day or two after booking the tickets, shopped for an appropriate carrier a few months in advance, verified and reverified and then verified yet again all the documentation needed, both on the airline’s website and the border control site for the destination country (in this case Les Douanes Françaises).  I talked to the vet about 2 months in advance just to make sure I wasn’t forgetting anything and to make sure to have an appointment for the health certificate a week or two before departure.  In the end, problems can obviously still happen, as was the case for us this time around, but it really is not too difficult to travel with your four-legged friend (keep in mind, species outside of cats and dogs can be more complicated), especially with proper planning and preparation.  I know that there are companies that specialize in helping you move with an animal internationally, but I imagine it costs quite a lot more and in my opinion it is not really worth it in most cases as the whole experience is quite simple.  And I find that it really doesn’t cost as much as you would expect, especially if you already have a good carrier.  But what really counts in the end, regardless of all the stress, the expense and the hassle, is that your furry family member makes it alive and in good health, as Rasteau did.


 
Rasteau seemingly quite happy here in France, taking a nap in the bottom of our hall closet. 

Rasteau out in the garden, ready to pounce on something he saw move in the ivy.

Sunday, June 2, 2013

Le petit furball

Rasteau has really been adapting well to his new surroundings. He especially loves his new 2000 square meter garden and he's working hard on honing his hunting skills.  He's already managed to get a bird and a few lizards, and every time he sees the dirt move he tries to figure out how to get at the moles underground.
He's also already had a few run ins with a big male cat in the neighborhood,  but they seem to have smoothed things out and now Rasteau is working hard to claim his territory, putting his scent everywhere he can!

Here's a picture of him taking a rest in the old wheelbarrow, one of his favorite spots to sit back and surveiller son jardin, keeping an eye out both for other cats and for the lizards that like to climb on the wall next to him!

Wednesday, May 29, 2013

Headed West

Finally getting around to posting about our road trip through a small portion of the US (of course I have to do this using my cell phone as a wifi hotspot as we still don't have internet and don't seem to be getting any closer to having it).

Anyway, our road trip was incredible.  We had a fantastic time and saw more amazing things that I can possibly write about.  Honestly I don't even know where to start.  The weather was incredible and I think we got really lucky in that respect.  Sun every day, no rain, not too hot during the day, though a bit nippy some of the nights we spent camping in the desert.  The two nights we were camping at the Grand Canyon actually got down to below zero, which was not in the forecast, and being the extremely cheap people that we are, we didn't invest in any good camping gear for this trip, so we ended up spending those two nights sleeping in the car.  But other than that it was great, and it turns out the Ford Fiesta is actually quite comfortable to sleep in and I almost regret having spent the money on a cheap tent and air mattress for our three nights of camping in Utah.

Everywhere we went was incredible and I have a hard time picking favorites in general, but I guess if I had to have a preference it would either be for Canyonlands National Park or Petrified Forest National Park, though I highly recommend every place we went.  The only real downside was, when planning this trip, I don't know what we were thinking.  We went to a lot of places with high elevations and cliffs (Canyonlands and the Grand Canyon where you are essentially exploring giant holes in the ground, Mesa Verde which is primarily for visiting cliff dwellings, etc) and Lionel has an extreme case of acrophobia mixed with vertigo.  This of course meant that in the end he spent a few days freaking out, for example when we were supposed to do our 11 mile hike in Canyonlands and only got to do 6 miles of it because one section had you walk along a ledge, hugging a wall with a huge drop off right next to you and his fear of heights caused him to freak out and have a near panic attack.  As a result, he didn't really visit any of Mesa Verde and I had to go on all the visits of the cliff dwellings alone.  He only really got to see the parts on top of the mesa.  And the hike I had planned on the South Kaibab trail at the Grand Canyon, to go part of the way down the canyon, yeah, well I got to do that alone too because he couldn't even handle getting closer than 3 meters from the edge of the canyon, let alone going over the edge.

But other than that slight misstep in planning, we were amazed with everything we saw, we had a great time on the trip and we are definitely hoping to go back out west on one of our next trips to the US.  And now for the pictures:

Lionel and I hiking a small canyon in Arches National Park

exploring the Windows Arches in Arches National Park

view from a hike up a slick rock in Arches National Park

Delicate Arch

Lionel and I in Canyonlands National Park

view over Canyonlands National Park

hike out to Upheaval Dome in Canyonlands

more hiking in Canyonlands

visiting Canyonlands

the beginning of the fateful 11-mile hike in Canyonlands

hiking in Canyonlands

our first view of the Grand Canyon

the Grand Canyon

at the Grand Canyon, the closest picture I could get Lionel to take

Lionel staying far from the edge of the Grand Canyon

me and the Grand Canyon

hiking into the Grand Canyon alone

part of the South Kaibab Trail into the Grand Canyon

Mesa Verde National Park

The Spruce Tree House cliff dwelling in Mesa Verde

visiting a cliff dwelling

The Cliff Palace cliff dwelling in Mesa Verde

Monument Valley

Monument Valley

visiting Monument Valley, a picture of us taken by a nice French family we met there

me with some huge petrified logs in Petrified Forest National Park

Petrified Forest National Park and part of the Painted Desert

Petrified Forest National Park

The Blue Mesa, part of the Blue Badlands section of Petrified Forest National Park

the Painted Desert

where historic Route 66 used to cross Petrified Forest National Park, if you look
closely on the left side of the photo you can see the old electric poles that used to follow Route 66 

the Painted Desert

the cathedral in Santa Fe, New Mexico

Santa Fe

a shop in Santa Fe

meeting up with Karin of An Alien Parisienne and Do-Overs in Denver

following the route of the historic Route 66
 

Sunday, May 26, 2013

Les bonnes nouvelles du boulot

In usual French fashion, we still do not have internet at the house. But on the bright side I at least now have a cell phone with unlimited everything, including calls to the US! So thank you Freemobile for allowing me to stay connected to the outside world for only 15.99 euros a month and damn you Freebox for taking so long!

Finally having access to my smartphone again means that I can now blog a bit more regularly (if I find the time!) but at the same time I can't post any photos of our road trip yet because they are all on my computer and it would take years to post that many pics from my phone. So, since there seemed to be some interest I figured I'd post about the exciting work news I alluded to in my last post...

After our road trip I planned to continue working for another week and one day to help my company out and train my replacement. So I was planning to work Friday,  May 2 and then the full next week, practically killing myself by working up until the weekend before the move and essentially giving myself almost no time to pack, say goodbyes, etc. I was very anxious going back in that Friday and curious to see who my replacement was (I had helped them interview candidates). Lo and behold I find out Friday morning that they hadn't hired anyone to replace me, and that, in fact, while I was gone they had checked with a lawyer to investigate keeping me and having me work from France!

So there you have it, things are actually falling into place for me for once! I have a job already, I don't have to go through the hell of looking for work AGAIN, and I'm not teaching English! It's great and a very nice change from my usual lack of luck on the professional front!

The only downside is the additional stress this has put on the entire move. What was decided was that in order to keep me I have to work as a contractor for them and I will bill them for my hours, expenses, etc. Since I'm no longer an official employee of the company I no longer get any paid vacation or holidays or social benefits whatsoever, so I managed to negotiate myself a handsome raise to make up for it. Here in France I have to declare myself as an auto-entrepreneur and essentially create my own company. I then pay my own cotisations into la Sécu and everything based on how much I earn. The added stress in the moving process has been a result of the fact that they told me they wanted to keep me at the very last minute (less than 2 weeks before our departure!) and I had very little time to look into the process of becoming an auto-entrepreneur and setting up shop here in France. I had really been hoping to figure it all out before leaving and then get the paperwork done here this past week but it turns out I won't even have a meeting with someone here about the process until this Thursday!  Not to mention the fact that I'm supposed to start working Tuesday the 28th, from home, and I still don't have internet!  In fact, le mec de France Telecom isn't even coming out for the construction de notre ligne until Tuesday! And the rush to get a work phone, which still hasn't arrived, and office supplies and a good printer/scanner/copier which I thankfully do have now thanks to Fnac and their great promo on shipping at the moment, and all this while trying to do standard administrative tasks in France and trying to renovate an old house so we have more than just a bedroom, torn apart bathroom and pieced-together kitchen to live in!

So I will be spending the week at my in-laws, working from their house, while Lionel stays at our house and sands plaster, fixes walls and paints. Once we have internet (which I really hope will be soon but I fear could still be another couple of weeks), and a functional room in which to install myself, I will be setting up a home office and working from home, which should be interesting.  I just hope it all goes well because this is a great opportunity for me and I'm very lucky to have the chance to continue in my position! Not to mention how flattered I feel that it turns out they like and appreciate me that much! Talk about a huge boost to my self esteem as well as a good career opportunity!

Tuesday, May 21, 2013

Check in

Thought I would write a quick post while I had the chance to let everyone know that I haven't forgotten about my blog and that Lionel, Rasteau and I have all safely arrived in France.  Lionel and I had an amazing time on our road trip and I'll post tons of pictures as soon as we manage to get internet.

Since our road trip things have been extremely busy what with dealing with the sale of both our cars, packing all our belongings for the move to France, dealing with various paperwork in the US (car insurance, cell phones, bank stuff, etc), visiting with friends and family in the US, shopping, two very long and stressful trips to France (more on that later), work and some very exciting work related news that I got the day I came back from the road trip, but which has added a lot of stress to the entire moving process.  Suffice it to say that we are exhausted and stressed right now, but happy to be in Bordeaux!

Since our arrival in France we've been very busy dealing with paperwork (I had forgotten just how much I hate the words "justificatif de domicile," and I now have a new enemy, the Certicode) and the house.  Let's just say I hadn't really realized just how much work there was going to be to do upon arrival.  We are living in a veritable chantier, and I feel like there is no end in sight!  We can't even really unpack or set anything up as the only really functional rooms in the house at the moment are two of the bedrooms, and unfortunately the one not being used is the one we are eventually going to use as our bedroom, not to mention all the shopping I need to do to get us comfortable.  Add to that the stress of my unexpected work news and I'm practically going crazy!

Anyway, we are fighting our way through the misery of French bureaucracy and I'm hoping (praying really) that we will have internet next Tuesday.  My fingers are also crossed that we will manage to have at least one cell phone by the end of this week.

Once things are more settled I will post not only a blog about our road trip but also some more details of our move and current situation as well as the house renovations.  Until then, I'm off to bed because I have a long day of painting and sanding plaster ahead of me tomorrow!